Jackets and coats came with velvet lapels and buttons; voluminous cape coats swooshed around models’ legs, and gold braiding and filigree embroidery wove their way onto trousers, capes, shearling jackets, and coats. Dandyish silk foulards were tied in a bow at the neck, and printed silk pajama trousers swooshed from under gray overcoats. The gold and flourish recalled the duo’s Napoleon-inspired collection from fall 2006.
There was a counterpoint to all the sparkle: The duo also sent out jackets with distressed, rough edges, coats that were artfully rumpled, and worn-looking bits of velvet on jackets for a cozy, lived-in vibe that is proving a major trend for fall. Before the show, the designers said they were responding to a mood among the youths of today. “The clothes have to have a history — it’s not about being retro, but they have to have had their own life. It’s about memories, familiarity — it’s comforting,” said Dolce. “The new generations want it, because novelty can be scary.”
